Building of a Black Pearl - page 5
The coamings are now cured and luckily they came off the deck easily. Now they just need
to be trimed and ground.
Done. Two finished coamings and only 228 gr on the weight. That's less than one
coaming from Kajaksport.
The lists for the hatch edges needs to be formed. I have cut two pieces each
3mm thick for each hatch.
The lists was too hard to twist and control so I ended up making a template to fix them to.
Aft deck is completely flat and thin. It therefore needs three reenforcement strips on
the inner side if i should sit on the deck. Here the lists are made and glued and I have prepared 2 strips of fibre per list.
The two hatches and coamings are now done and ready to be installed.
After a longer break there is once again som progress.
I would like ti create
a proper seat, so for this boat I decided to cast one in fibre glass. All my foam left overs are assembled to a block for a mould.
Now it is only to get it in shape.
The mould is formed and is a perfect fits of yours sinderly's butt.
The finished seat mould
The finished seat
The seat is shaped and trial fit. The seat weights 400 gr on the spot.
The slot for the skeg is cut.
The skeg and box is trial fitted
Foot rests installed. I have reversed the screws so that the screw heads are on the inner side and the nut
cast into brackets. In this way I can avoid the ugly screw heads on the outside of the kayak. It takes a bit of mod. of the rails for
making room for the screw heads, but it is worth it.
The work has once again laid low due to other matters.
The slot for the skeg is now done. I have aplied one layer of reenforcing wowen all around the slot.
The skeg box is installed.
The hull and the deck part of the kayak is glued together.
Five straps and a 100 pieces of gaffa tape holds everything together while the glue cures.
The work phase that a kayak craftman really do not look forward to - to tape the
kayak from the inside. It's a mess but someone has to do it.
The kayak is taped inside as outside. A taping do not improve the look of a a kayak but it
can be made quite nicely (invissible) with som patience.
The kayak is now ground all over. I have used grade 60 sandpaper for the more rough tape edges and grade 80
to treat the rest of the surface.
Masking tape is aplied to the kayak and it is ready for the painting. It's only the hull I paint black.
Two layers of pigmented varnish are now applied. I use the International 2-component Perfection Plus Varnish,
and apply it with a roll. The varnish is easy to work with and it flows and evens nicely with out runners.
For the hatches I have made up a new type of locking device. It consists of four keys on pivots holding the hatch to the
coaming (shown upside down). The tension is created by rubber bands.
Details of the locking device.
The deck has received one layer of clear varnish. The colour and structure of the wood is now truly visible.
I use Hempel Classic Varnish thinned 15-20%.
Details of deck and front hatch.
The finalized kayak. The weight is 15 kg spot on with everything fitted
Text laminated in the woven
Carrying handles in leader
The kayak signed in gold-bronce.